Hiva Oa



"Hiva Oa..."

Just saying it, is a sigh of contentment, a happy, peaceful yawn.
The name is a tropical breeze, filled with sounds of brown,  flowing-haired, Marquesans...
Who laugh as they fish of the pier or paddle with strong arms and tattooed shoulders, racing past you, in long, fierce outrigger canoes.
This place is so dope, it's ridiculous.
Getting here from Mexico by boat... even more awesome.

We slept like logs.
The boat was still and quiet and the breezes wafting gently through the hatches are scented with woodsmoke and frangipani.
The sun comes up and I wander out on deck and look at the great green valley that leads from the bay up into the lush mountain above.
Black volcanic peaks disappear in a halo of soft tropical clouds...
clouds that I don't have to worry about, at least not today.
We are all so excited to explore,  
no one wants to eat breakfast.
The kids down some water and eat a spoonful of Nutella each, Jon and I drink cold coffee over ice,
We climb into the dingy and head to shore.
The kids are sparking with glee at every new thing...
And SO much is new, to go from the desert landscape of the Baja to this, green and fertile land.
Chickens and horses, dogs all wander freely and look so healthy and clean.
Nobody seems to go hungry here.

We wander along the road,  
marveling at all the juicy fruits hanging on the trees.
Mangoes and breadfruit, pamplemouse and papaya in such perfect shape and quality and quantity you cannot imagine.
They all look so tempting and ripe but we don't dare pick anything,
every tree here belongs to somebody.
It would be like having a stranger come into your house and help themselves to whatever is in your fridge!
We note the nicest farms and plan to stop by tomorrow and buy some fruit off the owners,
no bothering anyone on these islands on Sundays.
Town is about a two mile walk and everyone seems to be at the little church on the hill.
You can hear beautiful singing from the open windows as it floats across the valley. 

In the village, we find an atm and a bakery where we can buy baguettes tomorrow when we come to check in with the Gendarme and get our clearance papers for FP.

We pass  an inn that serves wood fired pizza,
and a plan is hatched to come back for dinner...

In town, we buy the most perfect, fresh, eggs ( there are chickens EVERYWHERE here ) and several little gâteau .

Back to the boat to straighten up, make a giant plate of scrambled eggs with our last peppers and fresh herbs,
and then....
back to sleep.

Hivaaaaaa Oaaaaaaaaaa.....



Captain having coffee
FLOWERS!

SO many new bugs, birds, beasts, to discover...

A Marquesan prince thunders by on his horse- his hair was as long as the horses tail!


Not very good at hiding chickens.

Anchorage


French Poly Franc!




MANGOES!




5 comments:

  1. Heevoans good live in that wood
    Which slopes down to the sea.
    How loudly their sweet voices rear!
    They love to talk with marineers
    That come from a far countree.

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  2. I don't see a shoulder sling ... that's very good. An earthly paradise ... the calm after the storm. I bet you're having to pinch yourselves. You are now the envy of us all! Hugs to everyone.

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  3. the ancient marineerApril 28, 2013 at 8:19 PM

    O Wedding-Guest! this soul hath been
    Alone on a wide wide sea:
    So lonely 'twas, that God himself
    Scarce seemed there to be.

    O sweeter than the marriage-feast,
    'Tis sweeter far to me,
    To walk together to the kirk
    With a goodly company!—

    To walk together to the kirk,
    And all together pray,
    While each to his great Father bends,
    Old men, and babes, and loving friends
    And youths and maidens gay!

    Farewell, farewell! but this I tell
    To thee, thou Wedding-Guest!
    He prayeth well, who loveth well
    Both man and bird and beast.

    He prayeth best, who loveth best
    All things both great and small;
    For the dear God who loveth us,
    He made and loveth all.

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  4. The Dubious DecanterApril 29, 2013 at 8:20 AM

    Well now, all this bending the head to the great Father thing is pretty old hat. The problem is human beings confuse words with things. I prefer to think of the first line of that rabidly narrow-minded, blood-bespattered tome as 'In the beginning was the Wad and the Wad was Dodd.' More music in it, don't you think? More nudity. Maybe even a whiff of freedom.

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  5. oh!
    my!
    god!
    i mean is buddha there? it's incredible! so happy and thrilled you're there!

    more pix!!!!
    love love love to you all and my lil nest!
    :)
    xxooxxoo

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